A while back I bought and downloaded this pattern, which includes a pattern for a bustle pad or pillow. So finally, before my last event, I decided to try the bustle pad and see if I liked the effect.
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I did. Having an actual bustle extension changes your shape, adds Victorian authenticity, and makes those floofs pop. I thought my ass was already big enough. Turns out I was wrong. So what's under that skirt?
This:
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It's construction is pretty simple. The bottom, as you can see in the second picture, is a half-oval. The front and back are two trapezoids, one bigger than the other. The smaller trapezoid is the back, the side against your body. The larger trapezoid is gathered along the top (smaller) edge so that it is the same width as the smaller trapezoid. The bottom of the large piece is the same length as the curve of the half-oval. Right sides together the large side of the front is sewn to the curve of the half-oval. The straight side of the half-oval is sewn to the larger side of the smaller trapezoid, and the sides of the two trapezoids are sewn together, leaving the top open. The pillow is stuffed with stuffing and then a waistband is added to the top to seal it up.
I made a bad Paint drawing of the pieces for the pillow. These are just free-drawn. They are not to any exact scale and aren't a real pattern, but a visual aid to help you make your own and understand what I'm describing above.
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As for the size of the pillow, that depends on your size and your build. If you're very curvy already, like me, you'll want a bigger bustle so it looks proportionate on you. If you're a flatter shape, that's probably going to look a little weird on you, so you'll want a smaller bustle. The width of my back piece at the bottom is 14" without seam allowance. At the top it is 10." The bottom of the front piece is 18". The height is around 9", including the waistband. You want it to be smaller than the width of your behind and you ideally want it to rest on top of your own curves. As for stuffing, you can probably tell mine is a little under-stuffed. I didn't know how it would look, and I was afraid of having a horribly overstuffed thing coming out of my back. And it's deflated a bit from having been worn to two events and sat on etc. So you may want to add more stuffing than you think you should, knowing it will compress some.
As for the waistband, I just made one with two buttons on it to button around my waist. It fits snugly when I put it on, but after I add my corset over the top, my waist shrinks a few inches and the waistband sags a bit. To avoid this, you may want to use elastic or a drawstring in your waistband to make sure your bustle stays where you want it. As for comfort, I've found wearing this to be really comfortable. I'm not aware of it feeling different than wearing my outfit normally until I sit down. And then it just squishes into the back of your chair like the rest of your skirts. You don't end up sitting on it, since it's on top of your behind. It's just a little more volume to take into account when sitting down. It kinda makes a good lumbar pillow, too, if it squishes just right.
One final note. At Aggiecon last weekend, one of the vendors (not in costume) complimented me on wearing a bustle as "it's something people leave out". I told her it was a bustle pillow and lifted up my overskirt to show her. She then spent a few minutes explaining to me how my bustle pad was wrong and how it should be in a different place and be shaped differently, etc. It sounded like she was describing a bum roll, which is the wrong period, but I just smiled and nodded and walked away as soon as I could. This kind of nitpicking on historical accuracy is so annoying. And it's not very steampunk (although I don't believe the lady in question was a steampunk). If the effect it produces under my skirts looks good (and it obviously did or she wouldn't have stopped me to compliment me), then I don't care if this is not the way it should look or not.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask. I hope this helps someone achieve the look they're going for.
EDIT: If you would prefer to work from a pattern, or want a different style/size of bustle pad, I now offer a downloadable pattern for three styles of bustle pad.
Thanks for posting that! I'm amazed, looking at actual Victorian bustles and bustle pads, on how many different styles there were. I highly doubt there's any way to say that there was an exact right bustle for anything (as long as it gives you the silhouette you're looking for), unless your doing a historical re-enactment of a particular person and have documentation on their wardrobe. And really, that is SO NOT what Steampunk is. A lot of people don't "get it" if it's not recreating a specific period in history.
ReplyDeleteBut I have to agree that a bustle under a skirt like that looks so much better than when the back ruffles like that go flat. And proper support like a corset can make the difference when wearing Victorian style tailored tops too.
Thanks for posting this. I hope to get off my butt and make one someday. Also, I'm sorry you got complimented by that vendor then told you were doing it wrong. How rude! I do agree, that's not what Steampunk is about. The Steampunk "period" only exists in our minds, therefore we can be as creative as we want to be with it.
ReplyDeleteThe vendor probably got confused when she saw that your bustle was made of stuffed cloth, cause traditionally that's what a bum roll is made of. But you're right a bum roll is still a very different thing from an entirely different period. Anyways, thanks for the explainer, I'm graduating high school next year, and the dress I'm planning on making for grad is sort of gothic, loosely based on victorian styles and I was worried about what I would do for a bustle and how I would sit on it. But you said you've had no trouble sitting on yours. It's very reassuring.
ReplyDeleteI have a question - whereabouts should a bustle pad sit? I've tried tying it tight around my waist, but that makes it look as if i don't have one.
ReplyDelete@fettlereetly
ReplyDeleteMy bustle pad sits on top of my butt. It's not precisely tight around my waist but fits a little further back. It's possible that you may not have the built-in support (so to speak) for the pad and may need to make a bigger one for full effect. I know someone who made one shaped more like a horse's behind and that may be a better option. (Funnily, the last time I wore mine my husband asked why I didn't wear my bustle pad. Apparenly he thinks my butt just looks like that normally. ;))
Thanks so much for posting this - you converted me! I made one following your instructions and it was totally worth it, I'm so glad I found your article.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much! I have made a steampunk outfit for a wedding this weekend. Corset(check), awesome shoes(check), cool jacket and jewelry(check), but i knew I was missing something and just realized that I need a bustle! No time to shop for a pattern at the local overpriced fabric store. You are awesome!
ReplyDeleteI have been wanting to be Disney's Ursula for sometime now. I found a fantastic drawing of a costume, but need the bustle to make it come together. I had to make a few changes to your bustle. Thank you very much. Now just to put it all together.
ReplyDeleteHi there! I've been reading your blog and really enjoying it; thanks very much! I'm currently making McCall's 6097 (green and red victorian dress with a detachable bustle) and I'm going to make a bustle pad to go under it. It's so exciting! I'm already done with the top and well on my way to being done with the skirt. But here's my question: should I hem it while wearing my not-yet-made bustle pad? Or does it not make so much of a difference? What would happen if I hem it with the bustle pad, then want to wear it without for some occasions? Having not made it yet, I'm having trouble envisioning just how much fabic it'll take up. Or do I wear it over my skirt, but under the bustle? I guess I was just now picturing it under the skirt, but maybe it should go between the two layers? Hmmm....
ReplyDeleteWhat do you think? Am I making sense?
Thanks for any advice!
If you intend to wear it with the bustle pad, you should hem it while wearing the pad. If you wear it without the pad, then likely the back of the skirt will drag a bit on the ground. It also depends on the size of your bustle pad, if you want to have the option of wearing the skirt with or without the pad, you might consider making a smaller pad so the difference in back length is less.
DeleteHI Violet,
ReplyDeleteI made the bustle pad and skirt from Simplicity 1819, and while it does what it is supposed to, there is a droopy gap between the back of my waistband on the skirt, and the bustle pad is able to be seen at times. Does this mean my skirt is too loose around the waist, or that the pad need more poof, so it sits up higher, or maybe a combination of both? I don't like to be too constricted in the waist area. I also wondered if maybe i need to make the bustle pad a bit wider. I don't have much hip to hold things out at the side, but maybe its a bit small as well? Would appreciate thoughts. thanks!
Yeah, it sounds like your waist is too big. I have a couple of skirts I have to safety pin at the waist because I've lost inches in the waist.
DeleteThanks Violet, suspected it was the case! :)
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