How to Make a Victorian Cravat or Ascot -A Tutorial

NOTE:  I have now updated and improved this tutorial with better instructions and photos.  Please see the new version here.

One necessity of any Victorian gentleman's costume is necktie. But when I went looking for a tutorial on how to make one, not only didn't I find one, but I found lots of conflicting information on just what a cravat looks like. To some extent, that's because the word "cravat" was used for many different styles over at least a hundred year period. What I'm calling a cravat, from here on in, looks like this or any of these. (Showing several different ways to wear them.)

From etsy

The first thing you'll need is your neck measurement. Subtract 1/2-1 inch from that measurement. One of the differences between a cravat and a normal necktie is that you tie your knot in the wide part of the tie, not the thin part. You also need to know how long you want the tie to be. Cravats are meant to be worn with a vest or waistcoat, and are only long enough to be tucked in to that. So ideally, if you have the vest you plan to wear it with, put it on and measure from your neck to the top of the vest. Add at least 3 inches to that measurement to allow you to tie it. Err on the side of length, because a cravat that doesn't tuck is nearly useless. (Ask me how I know!)

Once you have your measurements, you want to make your paper pattern. Decide how thick you'd like the skinny part of the cravat to be. For a pretty thin neck, I used 2 inches, and for a fuller look, 3 1/2". With your paper folded in half lengthwise, measure out a line 1/2 of your desired width from the fold. Make a line equal in length to 1/2(your neck measurement minus 1 inch). Then move up and draw a line 3 1/2 inches from your fold. Connect these two lines with a diagonal. When you unfold, you should have something that looks like this: 

From sewing

You'll notice I had to add more length to the thick part of the cravat. I'd make the length of the cravat about 12 inches + 1/2(your neck measurement). Hold your pattern up to your vest, to make sure it's long enough, but remember you need extra length to tie it. Remember to include or add a seam allowance, or this is going to be significantly thinner and shorter than you intend.

Ok, the hard part is over. Now, cut out your fabric pieces. What you're making is actually a reversible cravat, so I recommend using two complimentary colors or patterns, so you get two looks in one. You can use any type of fabric, but I recommend satin or silk (if you're not concerned with money). I buy up any satin remnants I come across for making cravats, since you don't need much. You could also use heavier decorator fabric. You'll be cutting two of each fabric.

From sewing

Pin these right sides together so that each half has one of each color.

From sewing

Stitch around the edges, leaving the smallest edge open. Notch the corners and remove the excess fabric from the seams.

From sewing

Fold the open end down over itself and stitch in place. Or, turn your cravat inside out through the neck and fold the end in and stitch the hard way. (BTW, getting this thing inside out through the skinny neck is almost the hardest part of the whole thing.)

From sewing

From sewing

Finally, insert one end into the other and stitch them together. I can't seem to make this seam look neat, but I doubt anyone will look too closely at the back of your neck.

From sewing

And...voila!

From sewing

As for how you tie the thing, the best instructions I've found are here: Tying an Ascot Tie

Of course, if after all that you decide you don't really want to make your own, I will custom make you one.

EDIT: For some alternate ways to tie a cravat, see this site.