How to Start Sewing Part One: Buying a Sewing Machine

I talk a lot about how I had never used a sewing machine before two years ago. It's something I point out whenever people tell me I'm "such a talented seamstress." Not because I'm bragging, but because I want people to know that it doesn't take that much or that long to do what I'm doing. You can do it, too! So I figured I'd finally write out some advice for how to go from a non-sewer to a sewer.

Step One: Get a Sewing Machine

I know that a lot of people who have not used a sewing machine before are kinda afraid of them. I was. I thought, well I can just hand-sew something if I need to. Nevermind that I hate hand-sewing and am really bad at it. I still somehow imagined it was easier than using a sewing machine. I was SO WRONG.

So yes, you need a sewing machine. You might already have access to one. Maybe a relative or friend has one you can borrow (or have?). If so, great.  Free is good.  But if someone says, "You can come over to my place and use mine," I, personally, would hesitate.  I am much more stressed out by making mistakes when someone is looking over my shoulder.  And I learn best by figuring things out for myself rather than having someone teach me.  YMMV.

Buying something new and cheap?
Ok, let's say you need to buy a sewing machine.  Easy, right?  Go to your local Wal-mart or other discount store and buy the cheapest one, right?  WRONG WRONG WRONG.  Seriously, don't do this.     Low end sewing machines are VERY low-end.  They are made with plastic internal parts, which will break under stress.  No matter how cheap you think that sewing machine is, you are basically throwing your money away.  The machine will break with use, and it won't be worth it to get it fixed.

Don't necessarily believe that just because a machine is a certain brand that you've heard is good that it means it is a quality machine.  Singer, for example, was a byword for a quality sewing machine for probably a hundred years.  Not anymore.  I don't know about their high-end machines, but the low-end ones are crap.  They trade on their name by selling really cheaply made machines.  Brother also makes a bunch of cheap machines.  If you are trying to decide if a machine is decent quality, try picking it up.  It should be heavy.  If it is light, it has plastic parts.  You want a heavy machine because you don't want it to walk itself across your table while you are sewing.  It should stay in place on its own.  Alternatively, if you are buying online, make sure you read the specs and get a machine with all metal internal parts.

Picking up a vintage machine for cheap?
So, if we don't want to go buy a cheap, brand-new machine, then we should start looking for old machines, right?  I mean, we all know that old sewing machines were made to withstand nuclear blasts and are awesome, right?  We should be looking at garage sales and thrift stores, right?

Well, I actually have a problem with this sewing-machine-buying-philosophy as well.  I once had a sewing machine from a garage sale.  It was a heavy duty old Singer, something I'm sure hipsters would fall over themselves for.  But I couldn't figure out how to use it.  There was no manual, no instructions.  How do you even thread it?  Are all the parts there?  How do I know if there's something wrong with it?  I maintain there was something wrong with that machine, but since I had never used a sewing machine before, I had no way to know if that was the case or what to do about it.   There are a lot of small things that can go wrong with a sewing machine, and it is nearly impossible to tell if there is something wrong if you're not familiar with them or how sewing should work.

So I'm not saying DON'T buy an old machine at a garage sale or thrift store, but I don't think it's the best option for someone entirely new to sewing.  If you have a super knowledgeable friend to go with you and help you figure out how to use the thing afterwards, great.  If not, maybe consider option number three.

Factory Refurbished
So what does that leave?  Don't buy a cheap new machine and don't buy an old used one?  What do I buy?  My personal recommendation is that you buy a factory refurbished machine.  A factory refurbished machine has the best of all worlds.  It's guaranteed to work.  It comes with a warranty.  It comes with all the parts, and hopefully a manual (if not, you should be able to download one for your model on the company website).  It is used and therefore more environmentally friendly and a much better bargain than a new machine.  You get all the features that an old machine doesn't have.  It's probably not a cheap piece of crap because those are not even worth refurbishing.

Baroness Violet's Knitter's Companion

I have a lot of projects and posts in the works, but I've been working furiously to get ready to vend at San Japan in August, so you'll have to excuse the lack of posts.

The only project I've been working on just for me is my Knitter's Companion Arm Bracer.  And it's finally finished!

I freely admit that this project was inspired by someone else's creation: the incredible Tailor's Assistant bracer by Mardigan Enterprises.   When I first saw it I was blown away and tempted to buy it.  But then I started thinking.  I don't like sewing by hand.  I don't do embroidery or anything in public.  So I don't actually have a need for the tools on that bracer.  What I DO have a need for are my knitting tools.  And a plan started to form.

The first step was to figure out all the tools I typically need and try to find steampunk equivalents.  The scissors were easiest, as I already owned a pair of small gold colored snips that look a bit antique.  I also had a gold colored thimble, and although it's not used in knitting, I might need one for emergency costume repairs.  For the rest, I started hunting around ebay and etsy to find appropriate tools.  The most important one for me was to find something cool to act as a stitch counter.   I looked and looked for brass stitch counters or tally counters.  They apparently do not exist.  So I got this vintage silver toned tally counter.  I also bought a gorgeous vintage brass hexagonal needle case and a brass measuring tape from the 20s.  Unfortunately the tape was in worse condition than I thought and was nearly unreadable.  When I tried to clean the rust off it with vinegar, it disintegrated.  So although I loved that case, I had to give it up.


The antique cloth measuring tape I have here actually came from an estate sale in a large container of sewing stuff.  The funny thing is that it's actually a measuring tape made to estimate the weight of a calf.  One side is inches and one size is estimated pounds at live birth. Which was so weird I had to keep and use it.  My favorite stitch markers are plain brass ones from Knit Picks and I put them in a glass vial.  The final tools are a gold colored cable needle I owned and a small crochet hook with I actually added at the last minute, since it's occasionally a really good idea to have a crochet hook when knitting.

The finished bracer before adding anything.  

Then came the difficult part: figuring out how to get all this stuff on an arm bracer.  Well, actually, no. Next came figuring out how to make an arm bracer.  This was actually quite easy.   I've done a little bit of leather working before, but I'm no expert.  I have a few basic tools and had leather on hand.  But I would have probably been in trouble if I hadn't found this awesome tutorial on making leather bracers.  Seriously, if you're looking for a first leather project, I HIGHLY recommend this tutorial.  I wish I had started with something this easy and clearly written.  Also, you don't need any special tools.

I love my anvil!

For the bracer I used some really thick leather that I got a while back for cheap.  It's really too thick for my taste, and difficult to work with, but it was ideal for this.  (It was supposed to be 6-8 oz thick, but I'm convinced it's more like 10-12).  For the attachments to the bracer, I used a much thinner leather leftover from my earlier leather projects.  It's the perfect weight (which I'm not sure of) and embossed so it gives it an extra feminine/Victorian touch.  My favorite way to dye leather is to dye it brown and then go over that with black antiquing gel.  I also got to use my new small anvil, which my husband bought for me at a garage sale.  It really makes riveting easier, and made working on the shaped bracer possible.

To attach all my objects, I mostly played it by ear, while still trying to plan out where everything would go.  The stitch counter was the most difficult, since I had to wet-mold a leather cover for it, but then attach it so that I could still remove the counter in order to reset the count.  (The reset dial is on the back.)  It took me two attempts to get something that would work for that.  Most everything else was pretty straightforward, using pockets or simple loops.  I did find the scissors wouldn't stay in the pocket, which is why I had to add that strap to hold them in.  And the thimble was tricky.  I had to look closely at Mr. Madrigan's design to see he had a hole in his thimble that he threaded the leather strap through.  So I had to get my husband to make some cuts in the thimble with his Dremel.

The closure went through some changes.  At first I had planned to use straps and buckles, but before I started I realized that the straps would be kinda tricky, plus I would need to buy buckles.  So I decided I would lace the bracer on, as in the tutorial.  This would allow for better adjustment for comfort, I figured.  I intended to put brass grommets in the lacing holes, but the grommets I have (for corsets) weren't long enough to go through this thickness of leather.  So plain holes it was.  I intended to lace it with leather lace, but that ended up being pretty uncomfortable.  And then I realized I had made a massive mistake.  I had forgotten to attach my measuring tape to the bracer.  And I didn't really have any room left.  So I once again borrowed inspiration from the Madrigan bracer and laced it with the cloth measuring tape.  It's much more comfortable than the leather lace, actually.  And it means I will have my measuring tape close by.
The final finishing was to glue soft faux suede on the inside of the bracer.  The underside of the leather was really rough and not something I wanted rubbing against my bare skin.  And with that, my Knitter's Companion is done!

I'm quite happy with it.  For someone who isn't really a leather worker, I think it's pretty impressive.  It's a bit awkward to wear because it's heavy and has a tendency to slide down my arm and press against the wrist bones. I'm hoping with some wearing it will work better.  But I'm quite happy with it, and it will certainly make finding and carrying my knitting tools much easier.

New Pattern for Sale: Bustle Pad or Pillow

I have a new sewing pattern for sale!

It's a full-size pattern that includes three different styles of bustle pad, so you can get exactly the right amount of lift for your skirts.  I've talked before on this blog about the difference a bustle pad can make in your overall look.  You can really take a costume to the next level with a bustle pad.  And now you don't have to worry about how to make one!

All of these are comfortable to wear and to sit in.  I love my bustle pillow, not only cause it makes me look good, but also because it acts as a lumbar cushion when I'm sitting!  I wear the style on the lower right, the Large Bustle, but now that I've developed the tiered bustle I might have to try that one out.  

So, pop on over and buy yourself a pattern! 

(P.S.  - Don't forget my patterns for Military Spats and Tie-on Bustle Skirt!)