Wednesday, September 21, 2011

How to Bustle a Skirt

Since I made my Burda 7880 dress, I've had several people ask for help with how to bustle the overskirt. The pattern instructions are not very good, and this part is especially mysterious. In fact, I have no idea what they actually mean for you to do. But I'll share what I did.

You can also use this technique to make your own bustle from scratch or to bustle an existing skirt. The example overskirt is just a huge rectangle in the back, with two layers of fabric. The outside is solid purple and the inside is print.

Materials:

Skirt to bustle
Underskirt or other garment you will wear under the bustle skirt
at least 1 yd drapery ring tape (you can find this in the drapery section of your fabric store) or 15 loose plastic drapery rings
6 large jewelry clasps or 6 lengths of strong ribbon or cord

Instructions:

1. The first step is to sew three drapery rings onto the waistband of your underskirt. On the Burda pattern the placement of these rings is marked with an X, but you can just evenly space three rings. If you have loose drapery rings, you will have to sew them on by hand.



2. Then a length of drapery tape is attached to the underside of the overskirt at six points. Each of these sections has two rings, although you could attach more. You can see the general placement of the rings. Essentially there are two lengths of tape for each ring attached to the waistband. It's important that you sew through both layers of the overskirt when attaching these rings, whether you do so by machine or are hand attaching individual rings.



3. This is where the pattern instructions get really iffy. The next step is to gather the rings of each length of tape together, so you have six gathered points. I used what I had on hand, which was 6 large jewelry clasps, which worked rather well. I've since seen similar bustling techniques done with ribbon. So you can use ribbon or cord. Tie it through the rings and knot it securely.



You can see that if there was a third ring in between these two, it might work even better, but this was the spacing on my ring tape.

4. Now all you have to do is attach each clasp or ribbon to the rings at the waist. Each ring at the waist is attached to the two overskirt rings that line up with it. If you're using ribbon, again, tie securely. You don't want your bustle falling down. (I find it easiest to attach the overskirt to the underskirt before putting it on. Otherwise you will need help to attach them. I just leave them on the hanger together.)





And here's what the bustling looks like from the outside:



And here it is being worn over a bustle pad. (If you need to know how to make a bustle pad, see this post.)





I want to experiment more with this technique and try using ribbons and attaching the overskirt to its own waistband. But that has to wait either until someone pays me to make them one, or until I can afford enough fabric for a bustle.

Thursday, September 15, 2011

Bust Gore Corset Fitting from Start to Finish

So, one of the things I've started doing is making my own custom corsets. I love it. I think I kinda love it because it's difficult and requires precision, which is not something I'm really good at. But there's something about the step-by-step problem solving and pattern fiddling that is very satisfying. So, to give an impression of what it takes to make a corset fit right, here you go. (This will be long, and I apologize in advance.)

For my most recent (and third) corset project, I wanted to try out the Laughing Moon Silverado Bust Gore pattern. I also needed something to wear under a full Victorian outfit, so I decided to use the materials I had on hand to make a simple corset. I wanted something that wouldn't show under clothing, so I decided to try a mid-bust for the first time.

For my first mockup I didn't make any changes to the pattern, other than redrafting it to the sizes I eventually used for the LM Dore I made a few months ago. (In this case, the bust is two sizes smaller than the waist and hips.) For the bust gores, I wasn't sure what size to use. I wear a DD bra, but I've been measured at a DDD. Figuring it would be easier to take away than to add, I used the 3D size gore.



As you can see, the corset fit well, except for the bust. Obviously they were too big. Also, the corset completely met at the back, which is a first for me.

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

HCC Steampunk Exhibit

A friend sent me a link a few weeks ago announcing that Houston Community College's fashion department was unveiling a steampunk exhibit. The department received a very large donation of antique and vintage clothing ranging from the 18th century to the modern day. They've used the steampunk aesthetic as way to create new ensembles using clothing items from many different periods.

I spread the world through the local steampunk community and we soon had been invited for a private viewing of the exhibit, which took place last Saturday. I was very impressed with the way everything was put together and displayed, especially as it was done by someone who isn't actually a part of the steampunk culture.











You can see all my pictures here:
Houston Community College Steampunk Fashion Exhibit
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